Sewing machine



Jan. 8 1924.

W. N. PARKES SEWING MACHINE Filed Feb. 1, 1919 8 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOH WITNESSES:

Jan. s 1924;.Y

W. Nl PARKES SEWING MACHINE Filed Feb. l 1919 lill"l 1Wmemnrnlmumxlunlllw INVENTUR Jan. 8 1924.

w. N. PARKEs SEWING MACHINE Filed Feb. 1, mls s sheets-sheet 4.

' WITNESSES:

JNVENTOR 8 Sheets-Sheet 5 INVENTOR ma@ 2z. om

W. N. PARKES SEWING MACHINE Filed Feb. l, 1919 Jan. 8 1924.

WITNESSES Jan. 8 1924.

W. N. PARKES SEWING MACHINE Jan. 8 1924. 1,480,106

` w. N. PARKEs SEWING MACHINE Filed Feb. l, 1919 8 Sheets-Sheet 7 WITNESSES: f

VINVENTOR MYLLJQQWW Jan. s 1924.. 1,480,106

W. N. PARKES SEWING MACHINE Filed Feb, l, 1919 8 Sheets-Sheet 8 "IHHIIW SQ IQ "lill y Patented .J an. 8. .1924. l

umriss STAT-Es WILLIAM nranxns, ory BROOKLYN, NEW aroma sEwnvo MACHINE.

Application 4tiled February. 1, 1919. -Serial Nm 274,532.

machines that do ornamental stitch or embroidery work, and is preferably herein illustrated and described in connection with a lock ,stitch type of this class of machines.

` and heidv thesai 'made so the outer edge of it is located o The main object of the invention is to provide a machine to ornament the edge of 'fabric'wvi'th scollo' embroidery, and to'place dp embroidery as it is bein the edge of the fabric and constitutes the` finish of the same.

In doing work of this character by machines of the prior art, the embroidery is made on the body of the fabric near its edge,

^ and then the fabric which extends beyond the outer edge of the embroidery is cut. away thereby leaving the embroidery as'4 the nish of the edge ofthe fabric.

The main advantage secured by the invention is the linishin of the edge of fabric with this edge cmbroidrery without doingr the expensive cutting away of the fabric, and without the consequent liability of cutting the stitches of the embroidery.

`Among the other advantages the auto matic features of the machine are noted. These are such that one operator can attend to a number of the machinesl and the special construction of the machines together with these automatic features, adapts it to he used as a unit in a gang or multiple machine.

The embroidery made by the machine is of a superior quality. In the makingr of it an auxiliary thread is looped around each stitch connecting link of the needle thread, and :is drawn to the extreme outer edge of the einlziroideinwith sufficient tension to cause the said stitch' connecting links of the needle thread to become twisted around or concatenated with the auxiliarytliread at the said extreme outer edge. And a filling maierial is guided under the said stitch connecting links of the needle. thread. and in the embroideuv. that is located over and away fron the edge `-of the fabric this d"fi'iii-nig naterial is located between thesaidfstitchfon necting links of the needle thed 'fhii'h stitch connecting links of the bobbin thea'd. This construction holds the stitehesof 'the 4embroidery made cti' the edgeof 'the fabric in place, makes a butto'nhole'finishalhgw the said eXtreme 'outer `edge of ,itfandgives body and a desirable embossed etfectto it.

For the purposes of this application it is noted thatl in making a plain stitch, anembroidery stitch, or any kind of a st'ithwith a sewing machine, the needle presents a doop of thread to the cooperating stitch forming mechanism, and that this mechanism, in combination with other means' eausesthe thread or threads of which the stit'ehiisf'lo made to bepanchored in position; then a relative movement between the needle-and the work is produced after which another stitch is made as before and so on. A

Applicant defines the portion "o'f :tire- 16 stitclnng'thread at the point 4where itis anchored in position as the stitch, -end the stitching thread which runs from one to another of the stitches as the stitch connecting links of thread. 80 n doing plain sewing the material which is being stitched is moved progressivelytorward; in doing zig :1.a stitching, in addition to the progressive iinrward .movement, a, relative lateral movement takes place be-85 tween the needle and the material; and in A doing scallop embroidery stitching, in addition to the progressiveand relative lateral movements, a second relative lateral movement takes place, between the needle and 00 the material. for the purpose of locating the zig zag stitches in the desired scalloped design.

Applicant defines the first of the foregoing movementsas the plain stitch locat- `|35 ing movement; the'second as the zig Azag stitch locatingmovement; and the tli'lrd as the scallop embroiderj7 stitch locating movement.

The zig zag stitch lbeating movement^-l00 locates stitches alternately along two parallel lines and in this kind of stitching the stitch connecting links of thread run zig zag from one to the other of these' stitches. across the path between the said two parallel 105 lines of stitches; and the scallop embroidery tioxia view of one of the festoon designs..

When'the edge of the fabric is finished with zig zag stitches, the stitches are made alternately in and olf the edge of the fabric and the stitches which are made off the edge are held in position by the said edge, and the\zig zag stitch connecting links of thread run from the stitches in the fabric to those of the edge of the fabric.

Referring now to the drawings; Fig. l is a f-ront elevation, tion and Fig. 3 is a bottom plan ,view'of a machine embodying the invention. A

Fi 4 illustrates a det `il showin a secvices for oldin a supply or cone of threa and Fi 5 ilustrates how these devices may be geld in position above the machine.

Fig. 6 is a front end View of the machine with the face plate removed to expose de4 .tails ofmechanism. 25

Fi 7 is atop plan view of the base of the rictional work clamp, and Fig. 8 is a top lan view of the frictional work clamp Iocatev on a broken away part of the reci rocating work moving mechanism plate.

ig. 9 is a top plan view, illustrating theI construction of the stitch setting finger, the

- filler tube and its holder and Fig. 9 is a side F ing the feed wheel s view of the parts illustrated in Fig. 9.

Fig. 10 is an enlarged detachedA bottom lan view of the feed wheel, and its comb, illustrating the comb in its o erative position relative to the feed w ee Fi 10i is a detail view illustrating the feed w eel end of the feed wheel shaft, and-Fig. 11 is an end view of the feed wheel, illustrating a detail in connection with the relation between the feed wheel and its comb.y

Fig. 12 is a view illustrating how the 4 stitches of the scollo embroidery are formedover the stitch holding finger.

Fig. 13 is a` rear end view of the machine, illustrating the stop motion parts, and their position when the machine is operating.

ig. 14 is a horizontal sectional view on lines 14-14 of Fi 2.

Fig. 15 is asitiia view of the adjustable guide for guiding the strips of fabric to thc frictional work clamp. i

Fig. 16 is a perspective view the adjustable member of the guide for the strip of fabric.

Fig. 17 is a top plan view of a detail of the stop motion mechanism looking inthe direction of the vertical arrow Fig. 13.

ig. 18 is a perspective view illustratring adjusting collar.

ig. 19 is a top p an view of the bed of the machine illustrating the parts attached thereto in their relative positions.

Figs. 20 'and 21 are views illustrating illustrating adjustable Fig. 2 is a rear eleva-V scollop embroidery done on the machine through the actions of cams shown in Figs. 32 and 33 respectively.

Fig. 22 is a bottom planview of the reciprocating work movin mechanism plate. l

Fig. 23 is an enlarge back view of the rear end of the machine with the stop motion parts in their normal position in full lines, and with the stop motion trip lever in dotted lines illustrating a detail.

l Fig. 24 is a sectional view on lines 24-24:

F ig. 25 is a sectional view on lines 25-25 Fig. 23, illustrating details in connection with the stop motion. l

Fig. 26 is t fullsize top planfview of the Fig. 29 is a view of the work mechanism.

stop motion tripping device on lines 2929, looking in the direction of the arrows Fie. 19. f

Figs. 30 and 31 are rear' and front deis a detached face view of a detached views respectively of the thread defeet detector plates assembled.

Fig. 31 is a sectional view taken on lines 31-31 of Fig. 26.

Figs. 32, 33 and 34 illustrate the kind of cams which may be used in the machine.

Fi 35 illustrates the kind of scollop embroi ery the cam shown in Fig. 34 will make.

Fig. 36 is a diagrammatic view illustrating low the -auxilaryt looper thread is looped around the links of the needle thread.

Fig. 37 is a detached top plan view of the feed wheel shaft swinging bracket stop` and Fig. 38 is.a side view ofthe stop mo tion catch lever. i

In the drawings l is the arm of the machine, and 2 is the base.' The lower end of the vertical part 3 of the armV is attached to the base by means of screws 4 (Fig. 3). A driving shaft 5 is journalled in suitable bearing in the ai'm and in suitable bearin in the baseis journalled a hook shaft 6: acted and these shafts are operatively conn by mea-ns of a sprocket 7 which is seclired to .the shaft 5, and a sprocket 8 which is secured to the rear end of the shaft 6, and a sprocket belt 9 which is mounted. on the lll said sprockets. The sprocket 7 is twice the size of the sprocket 8, therefore in the operation of the mafhine thehook shaft is `revolved twice to each revolution of the driving shaft. The arm of the machiueis pro- 13 (Fig. 6)." The hOkHCII'ieS; in u anadjustable stop 41', andthetensioii usual mannen a. bebbin casel-"whichf is` parts aiefmountedA ina wellltliim'viifA 't0' the under eside 1 of P the; =bed""0f the machine 1.4,8o,'ioev B secured a fhook13" .which is 4provided` with|` aspringV Ii0;'"whioh normally inipingfe's' :inner "rovided withabobbii'inot shown; The- `onnstiidl 41*l which lattenissecuredflii'fthe bbin `heldfrom, rotating-with: the armlof themachine so it maybeciciiliirl hook bylmeans of'astop'fll'whiclitissecured adjusted... By adjiistingihe-stid toltl'il thetensionof the nspring-.40l is inceased,'fa

n as shown-in Fig. '3;- To the forwardV endoffthe driving, shaft 4is pivoted thefiipper end 21 uffa" Swinging leveris located in arbore formed. i'n bearing; bracket' 22.2 In suitable* bearings in this part 47 which is pivoted inV and carried by whichis'secured in* afble by SCleW 20, a needle thread eye 46.` The partlllli ofthe bracket'is`moiinted tovreciprocate a needle the pai-t, 16; The takemp leverfpivotAQ 's .bar 23, which is prdvidefl 'with wneedl 24- fixed so when the driving'shaft ofitliefma' 'Theloweli'endiofth:link 19`i3utafblys and chine is revolved, the bearing 1f/figs4 aied in a usual manner, connected with the needle' in a, circle bodily around, :and concentric A i reclplcated longitudinally. Thellnectloll up n'lovlneni;

a pitmaii 2 bar, so that when the shaft 5 revolvestli witlfthe'axis 0f the shaft, and' thisfiieans needle bar, through the parts mentioned, is the take-up lever is given awell between the needle bar -and the lower end vI have now described, in a generaliiifay,

0f th=1nk i5 Ofith S1181 Character which the stitch forming.. mechanism of' thewell .permits'the needle bar to bemoved orvi:

known Singer high speed Alock 'stitclizfigag brated laterally.

To the lower end of the-bracket 22 is piv- `zigzag stitching, may be adjusted "itc" oted yat 25 l) the fQlWrd-'end 26, Of plain straightaway' stitching. The"'infv'en In suitable bearings in the tion as illustrated and described'lieieiii is arm of the machinel is journalled ashort preferably adapted for use in combiiiation transverse sliaft 28 as indicated in dotted with this type of stitch forming mechanism The pai-ts designatedin 'thevfoie'goi'ir line in Fig. 2. On the said transverse shaft is secured an eccentric, not shown, which ennot sliown)`are well known parts o Athe gages the rear end of the pitman 27 so as said Singer zig zag machine. -In ii'cor'oratto reciprocate the said pitman in a usual ingr the inventionin this machine,subspl way each time the eccentric is revolved. The tally all of the stitch forming mechanism' mechanism and its operation descrlbed in itis preferably made use of, while, `all ofits 'this paragraph is the 'same as that which is feeding mechanism is' omitted. The r'iieclia- (shown in dotted outline Fig. 1), the latter used vin vthewell kno\vn Singer h igh speed nism and devices w'hicli I have providedffor lock stitch zig zag machine, mentioned furuse in combination with this' stitch Vformther on in this specification. On the diiving mechanism, to make a complete machine ing shaft 51s secured n spiral gear 30,Wliich with my invention in it, will new be dei is in engagement with a spiral gar- 31, scribed.

On the drivin shaft 5 is secured avvorm gear is secured to the shaft 28.- The gear 48, and next to t e `worm on the said shaft is 31 is twice thev 'size of thegear 30, vso it will pivoted a bracket 49; and a collar wlich be understood that the said transverse shaft is secured on the-sliaftjserves, in combination" sewing machine, which, in addition todoiil;` o.

Tiften- 'the machine. To thel end of the shaftf12'is sion= evice' isprovided i'vithiaslack. thread l 4an- 1 iso is only'revolved once to two revolutions of fivith the worm, tokeep the bracket poprlyf `the driving shaft 5,- 'and that from Saidlocated longitudinally of theLshaft.' O 'nithe transverseshaft and said eccentric the well said bracket is formed a beai'ing`pai't51 known zig zag movement is transmitted to through which a boreis formed, and iiiftliis, "the needle bar, same asin the` before referred bore is journalled 'the' up ei' end of fa'veif per 'eidpof 4 to well vknown machine. i

tically ,located shaft "52; heu l In the top f' the arm of the machine is i the said shaft cit/ends above thecaring rt secured a post 32, providedl with a thread 51, and on this end is secured a worm w eel eye 33. I n lthe side of the arm 0f the ma- 53 which is engaged by the w'rm 48, "On,

L 60. The shaft 60 side, and the the shaft 52, below the bearing part 51, is secured a collar 54 which, in combination with the hub 55 of the worm` ar, serves to letain the shaft longitudinally 1n position.

To the top of the secured (Fig. 19) elif means of screws 56, a bracket 57. provid with bearing parts 58 and 59 in which is journalled a cam shaft is held Alongitudinally in position by means of a collar 61 (Fig, 2), and the hub 62 of alcam 63, which cam 1s secured to the free end of the shaft b a screw 62'. The 'bearing art 59 exten s freely through a bore V64 Fig. 1) is formed through small bevelgear 68, which is in engagement with a larger .bevel r 69, that 1s secured means of a clampinesdcrew 65, at its to the rear end of the shaft 60.

The bracket 57 is, provided with a horizontally extendin arm 70, (Fi 19)., in

which 1s journalle downwardl and is an integral part of a segmental slotlever 72. The axis of the shaft 71 is at 73, and the part 74 of the lever extends horizontally from one side of the' axis, and part 75 horizontally from lever is provided with is. T slot 7 5, which is formed in a segment of a circle from one end of it to the other.' The T slot crosses -centrall the'axis of the lever. An arm` 76 l exten s horizontally and downwardly from the Tslot, lever, and this arm at itsend is provided with a roller 77 that is in engagement with the cam 63. The arm 70 is provided with .a downwardly extending bearing 78 (see Fig. 1), in which the bore for the shaft 71 is located To the end of the shaft 71 is secured adisc 79 which serves to retain the said shaft in position. The bore for the shaft 71 passes vertically through the bearing 78, which is at the end of the arm 70, and the portion of this bearing which extends below the arm is cylindrical in shape.

A coil spring 80 is located on the periphery of the bearing 78. The upper end of this spring contacts in a usual manner, not shown. with the T slot lever, and the lever end of the spring is, at 81locatcd in a hole formed vertically through the disc 79.- The disc, as before mentioned. is attached to the lower end of the shaft 71; it is attached to the said end by means of a screw, not shown, which screw passes tlroughthe disc and has a seat inV the shaft. The periphery of the' disc is provided Vwith holes 82.

When these parts are assembled the coil spring acts to turn-the T slotlever so its roller 77 is held in engagement with the peof the shaft 71 is loosened, bed 2 4of the machine is.

-curely tothe end of gibs is which the inner upright side of A the arm of themachine. On the saidpart 59 part 67 in which isV the other,

riphery ofthe cam 63. To increase or decrease the tension of the spring on the lever the screw which clamps t e disc to the end and then the disc is adjusted circularly, by means of a pin inserted in the holes 82 of the disc, until the desired tension is secured when by means of the said screw the disc is a ain oiamped se- A the sha To the top of the bed of the machine is secured (Fig. 19), bymeans of screws 82 and 83, gibs 84 and 85. Intermediate the said located a work movi mechanism reciprocating plate 86. An in grooves formed in the adjacent edges of the gibs and the plate are located bearing balls 87 and 88. This construction and these balls constitute a usual form of ball bearings o'h which the plate is free to reciprocate.v On the top of the plate is secured, by means of screws 89, a bracket 90 (Fi 2 and 26), which is provided with a slot 91, in which is -adJustably secured by means of a thumb nut 92, a

usual form of bearing on' which is pivoted.

the forward end 93 of a pitman 94. The other end of the said pitman is secured in a like manner, by means of a thumb nut 95, in the T slot 75* of the lever 72.

v'To the top of the reciprocating late 86 is secured, hy means of screws v96, a Feed mechanism bracket 97, which is 4provided with extending bcaring arms 98 and'99, in which is located a bushing 100 (Figs. 14 and 26), which b ushing is held in position by screws 101. In the bushing is journalled a primary feed wheel o erating shaft 102, which at its .foi-.ward en is provided with a head 103 (Fig. 6) To the'rear end of the shaft 102 is secured, by means of a screw 104 (Fig. 14), a disc 105. and on the shaft next to the disc is a gear 106, which is securely connected in a usual manner to the disc. The disc is provided with a crank pin 107. The gear nbuts the end of the bushing 100 and thereby takes the thrust in one direction longitudinall of the shaft 102, and the head 103 of the s iaft abuts the other end of the bushing vand thereby takes the thrust of the shaft m the other direction. A

A feed wheel shaft swinging bracket 108 (Fig. 19), is provided with arm bearings 109 and 110; the armll() is pivotcd ou the extending rear end of the bushing 100, as best illustrated in Fig. 14, and the arm 109 is pivotcd in u like manner, on the extending front end of the said bushing, (see FgxQG) andthe arms 98 and 99 of the feed mchansm bracket retain the swinging bracket in its operative position, and" when it is in this position 'it may be swung on its iivot. the axis of which is coincident with t e axis of the shaft 102. The arm bearings 109 and 110 extend from a connecting art 111, and, extending downwardly from t e ends of the part 111, are feed wheel shaft bearings 112 118 {(Figs. 10-end 10),` n 'feed wheel 119, provided witlVa-huh l120. T he end 117 'of the shaft `is a Vlittle Shorterthan the feed position ofholdingthe feed 'wheel onthe" straft itlraws "fthe 'hub ""120. 'of 4"the wheel intr l 112`of the'swingingbracket.`

0 t"Iliinrisof the pivot of thefeed wheel 40" collar v124 (Figf19). inthe periphery 'of which are 'formed viadjusting holes 1259 and in therside' of the -said collarare formedwiththe holes 126 of the collar. Nelizt tothe" collar on'the periphery of 4the bushing is 'a "leed 'wheel spring 127, lone end ofwhieh is llocated'in.ahole 128 formed infthexs'ide of thecollarlfFig. '18)'` and the other end of whic'lrngges'the part 111 of the swinging bra'cketf'asl Best-#seen in Fig; 19. To the top of the'bearingl109 ofthe Swinging bracket is secured a"fetzviheel'liter arm 129.

VTo 'the` =itnder Nside` of Athe reciprocating "plate'SG is '.ieculedfas i'lllistrated in-l `lgl 422, a ncedle'plate 130. provided 'with a needle slot 1211. Through' this ncedle'plaiei formed u slot 132. in w'hich is located un'emhroidery depression spring 133 which .spring is secured by means of a. screw 134 to the under Side of the reciprocating plateHG. `The reciprocating plate is provided with a needle pl-,ifc opening 135. which oh the under Sideis ed by the needle plates. The construc- Alocated so they vvare just v`of' the under side ofthe said plates.

`the top of the reciprocating cline .139.

VTom-'es1110 o'f the feed wheel. of the. 'comb is to comh.`from 'the :feed f 1o0- tion off these fix-'ts is such than; the under side of the nee le plate is'iush with the under side 'of `tl1e reciprocating plete, `:ind the spring 133, and its attachn -screw 134, are

belgow AAthe I'suraee fln'the to'p` of th 'needle plate isi-formed aconvace depression 136, that*extiendelfrom the edge of 'the' plate'to'the YSinti-132. And

inV the lembroidery depression fsprin" is v"formed n. concave depression 137 whic is -coincidcntwith the depression`136.,''['hese depiessions conform to the periphery of the feed wheel 119 which is located .in them. The inner end of the feed wheel is in Lalignment withthe inner edge of the spring1133. From "the top of fthe reciprocating plate 86, lat thefrontedge of the opening .135, is formed an incline 138 xihich'extends from plate to theV needle plaitemnd at the rear edge o'f"thes'aid opening is'fornied thesame In the periphery o`f 'thefeed wheel 'i vformed a Series-of V shaped roove'sdland '141 j14:2. "The grooves' 1-'40 areslightly deeper thali the grooves 141. To thc-onder side of the bearing 112 of "the swinging feed A'shaft bracket is secured, by means of ajscrew 141, i1 "feed wheel comb 142, provided )Vith teeth l1'43, which teeth are llocated rin' the The 'function hindof an inv\uo I" (Figs. 10 and 11), whic sepnrateteeth I.

thing the teeth ofthe'wheel may have picked tup. It will he observed that, as the grooves 140 are deeper than the grooves 1 41,^any

threads or lint that may lodge longitudinally in the grooves 141 vacross the grooves 140, the Vteeth of the comb will dislodge from the wheel as well as anything that may lodge in the grooves 140; y

0n the top of the work moving mechanism reciprocating plate is adjustably secured, by means of a-screw 144, the hase 145 (Fig. 7') of a frictional work clamp device. The screw 144 passes through afslot-MG which is formedthrough the said hase, and has a Vseat in -Ihe said plate. -At the-forward end of the hase is formed a neck 147,which at 148 is hent downwardly, and terminates in a work guide 149. Projectingnpwnrdly froxn=the base is a `tension si'iringv post A150, in which is transverselysec'ured in in 150 having extending-ends 151. The si e edges .freely the said post.

to the reciprocatin plate. Through the spring 1s also forme a slot 157 which is so constructed that the ost 150, and the. ex-

`tending ends 151 of t e pin that is located in the ost, Qpass freel through the said slot. T e en of a' neclli'Y 158 formed on the free end of thellat spring, is bent down-` wardl', and terminates in a horizontally exten ing end 159, to the under side of which is pivotedly secured, by means of a ivot screw 160, a frictional presser shoe 161. he shoe has an extending end or toe 1 62 which crosses the needle slot 131. On the postl 150, next to the presser shoe lifter spring, is located the presser shoe lifter springl control lever 163 (Fig. 28), which lever as an opening 164 through it that fits Extending laterally from thesaid o ning 164 are ways 165 and 166 through which the extending ends 151 of the pin, carried by the' tension spring post., pass freely. On the 'under siile of the said lever, and surrounding the opening through the same, is formed an incline-167, and extending upwardly from the lever is an arm 168. Next above the lever on vthe post,150, is located a washer169, against which impinges the presser shoe de ression spring 170 thati is also located on t e he upper end of the post is threade and on the same are located adjusting nuts 171, which serve to adjust the tensionof the s ring 170, so its pressure downwardly is su ciently greater than the lifting tension of the spring 154* to exert the desired pressure on the shoe 161.

The foregoing described fricticnal work clamp device performs the function' of frictionall clamping or pressing thework as 'the fee wheel moves it forward, against the top f the needle plate just in front of the needle slot, and the toe 162 of the presser shoe performs the function of frictionally pressing the work against the needle plate across the needle slot at the left side of the needle tohold the work against the Side strain which is produced on it when the machine is operating, which4 side strain is mainly in a direction to the right. The presser shoe lifter spring 1544 is so constructed that'it normally tends to more upwardly against the lever 163, and through it against the action of the spring 170. \Vhcn the lever is in the position Y showin Figs. 19 and 28 the 'ends 151 of the pin 150 are located in the ways 165 and 166 of the lever, and when in this position the spring 154* is pressed downwardly, through the action of the spring 170, and the shoe is thereby pressed into engagement with the work. The extent of this pressure is determined by the adjustment of the nuts 171 that are located on the top of the tension spring post 150. To open the clamp the' lever is moved on its pivot to a position at right angles to the position it is shown in in Fig. 19, and this 'movement- 'brings the incline 167 in engagement with in 150, and.

on the top of the ends of the pin when the shoe will be disengaged from the work.

To the top of the plate l86, at its rear end, is secured by means of a shouldered screw 172v (Fig. 19), the feed wheel shaft -Swingin bracket stop 173 (Fig. 37). The screw 1 2 passes through a slot 174, which Iis formed through the said stop and has a scat in the. reciprocating plate 86. The outer edge 174i'l of the stop is4 bent downwardly so that it engages the edge of the plate and thereby kce is the stop in position, and the outer end o the stop has an upwardly extending part 175 which is for use in adJusting the stop, and thenner end of it has an extending part-176 which isV adapted to hold the swinging bracket up suiliciently to keep the feed wll'eehout 0f engagement with thework.. a A Y fritional spring washer 177 is located on the shoulder under the head of the screw 172 which shoulder is of suilicicnt length to permit the washer to frictionally hold the stop in position (Fig. 19). `W'hen it is desired to have the feed wheel held out of engagement with the work, or

,out of engagement with the needle plate,

the swinging b'racket is manually turned upwardly, by means of the handle 129, and the stop is adJusted, by the means just described, so that, the end 176 of it is under the bearing 113 of the swingingr bracket, and when the parts are in this position the feed wheel is ield out of engagement with the Work or with the needle plate.

To the top of the plate 86. next to the front edge of thc. hase 145 of the frictional work clamp device, is secured by means of screw 178, a washer 179 which is adjustubly in engagement with the said front edge of the. said base. The screw passes through a. hole in the washer and has a sent in the to of the plate 86; and the raidv hole is locate ecccntrically relative to the axis of the washer as illustrated in Fig. 19. The draw of the friction of' the work. when the machine is being operated, is in a direct-on away from the front of the machine and this causes a pull on the outer end of'the work clamp in the sume direction. The said washer serves as an adjustable abutment against the side of the work clamp to pre` vent it from being pulled out. of position by the movement of the work.

To the reciprocating plate 86 is secured, by means of a screw 180 (Fig. 26). a base 181 of a narrow fabric guide 182. An adjusting slot 183 is formed through the said base and through this slot .the body of the said' screw freely passes into a scat in the plate.

Theilmder sido of the base, from its outerl end tottheydottied line 184, is4 cut away sufciently to allow the tape or narrow, fabric to pass-freelynnder it. AadV from the endr of` thefsid to the dotted 'line 185, a s lot. 186 @isforned through it. Onthe top of the -gifl'ide "is :SeiilfTe-d., b means f a screw 187,tjheadnablemenimr 1588 'of-the guide. A slottJBQmisgfoxmd inf thenner end ofthe saidfmeinlkg, uid throilgh; this slotl the screw 187 .freely passes into aseat' formed fof it in the :top of the said base. Aneck 190 (Fig. 16) of the vadjustable member is 1.o-

l eatec1:;i11- and passes thi-ouah the .slot 186 of the. salidfibase.` and the saii .neck at .its onter end ,.teuninates into a fabric inde part.

, 191,#,thebface of which is indica by 19.1.

this iit 19A.' is secured airend of a nar rowfflat'spring a'rm 19.5. the free end of whic'lilisilmn't -as at 190. The apex horizontnllyiiif the-:bent part 1 90 of the said spring is indie :with lthe center of the needle slot 131i, and in"'gractice this apex contacts with the work which passes between it and ,the edge-lof tlafto'el(i2l of tlu` frietional shoe 1,01. illu-work passes along. the springr causes the workl to turn upwardly around the lower edge inf the said part 102 of` the shoe. and this seri-'esas an additional means for holdingr the work from hein`rr moved to the right bythe' st rain before mentioned which is on it'whenthe machine is operating.

'lothe rear end of the transverse shaft 2S (l-`ig f.;" ll) is secured a collar 197",- in 'the face. of which is formed a 'T' slot 198, in which is adjnstably secured a usual form of bearing oii which is mounted the rear enihof a pitman 199. which rear end ishold on the, said hearing.r by a thumb screw 2.00. .The said hearingr may be adjusted so its axis is Acoincident with the. axis of the. saidshaft, in which' position no movement will `he transmitted to 4the pitman. The distance' the hearing.r is adjusted away Afrom the axis of the shaft determines the extent ofinovement,

usual manner 'on'the ballend 201.01 'a stem .7502 Figs. 2 and (i), whic'hjsten'i is located in an armfQOI-. `The. said armisyby means.

ofv` .a sorew- 204,4 adjlistalily, clamped vto a looper carrying bar 205. This bar at its upper end is mounted in a bore, which is formed in a part :206 which part islocabed ina threaded bore formed in the machine as illustrated in Fig. and the Said part. is

-locked in position by a screw 206. The

lower end of the bar passes through a bore vformed in a bearing 20T, and terminates into a looper holding end 208. A collar 209 which is secured o'n the bar by m'eansof a screw 210, contacts with the upper end of lthe bearing 207 and thereby restrains the bar from downward movement, and'the'npper end of the bar contacts with tile-end211 of the bore in the bearing :206, and thereby the bar is retained in its operative position. A slot 212 isl formed in the lower end of the bar, and Aiin this slot is clamped, in a usual nmnner, the shank 213, of an auxiliary thread carrying looper 214, the free end of which is formed into a' nose (Fig. .12),` through which passes a thread eye'or way 2.164, the thread delivery part of which Way is at the apex 2170i the nose. I

When the machine is operating, the loopcrr` carrying bar 205 is, through the means justl described, oseillated about its vertical axis,

and the looper 214 is thereby oscillated;

The location of the bar, and the construction of the louper, and the location of the thread delivery part 21T of itsnosc are vsuch that, the said thread delivery part of the looperis oscillated horizontally in asegment of a circle back ofthe reciprocating paths of the needle, and a considerable distance further tothe right of the zone ot' the lateral movement of the needle than to the left aS best, illustrated in Fig. 1Q. t

ln a suitable bore in the lower part of the face of the machine (Fig. 0) is secured by means of ascrew 218. a pin 219. on ywhich is fot-naad. a tiange 220. 'lhe pin passes freely through a usual slot. not shown, in the swinging bracket "22. which slot is'of Sullicient length to permit the braeltetto have the desired extent of lateral movement to give. the needle har. which is mounted in it as beforq described. the desired extent of lateral movement. 'hen the machine is operated. the lower end of the said bracket. is oscillated laterally between a bearing 221 formed on the face ot' the machine andthe said tlangeltl. y y t 0n the free end 122 ot' the pin 219 is clamped, by means of a screw 221. the upper end of a 'two part bracket 224. 'l`he upper part of thesaid bracket has a downwartlly extending part 225. in which is torna-da groove 220. by means of a screw 227. the upper en'd ofa part 228. Through the lower end of the )art 228 is formed a bore in which is seci'lred. )y means of a screw 229. a cylindrical filler material 4guideil() through which passes", a

1n the said groove is sernred.

and the contour of this finger is such that it conforms 'to the inner contour of the scollop as is liest illustrated in Fig. 12.

-Referring now to the stop motion device @which has been especially designed for use Alocated a pin in the machine of lhe invention`,'tlie rear ond of the driving shaft 5, is journalled in a hnshi'ng'234 (Fig. 24). 0n Ythc` extending end of the said shaftY is secured., hy means yof set screws 235, only onel of vwhich'v is shown a driving.r wheel 236 in the outer face oi which is formed a wide groove 237 thatcxtends com latelyV around the axis of the wheel, anA concentric with the said axis. In the .groove is located a suitable friction material 238; The wheel is provided with a hub 239, on which is mounted to revolve a. pulley 240,provided with a. belt groove 241, and a face 242 adapted-'to en ge -the frictional material 238, and with a lub On the hub is located a cap 244, in whiclris haring a head 245. Y

In the rear wall of the upright portion of the arm of the machine is secured a bearing pin 246, provided with a flange 247, and a threaded end 248, which threaded 'end is located in a threaded seat' in the said wall, and is locked therein by a lock nut 249. On the bearing pin 246 is pivoted a stop motion power control lever 249, which is provided with. a huh or base 250 that extends from the flange 247 of the pin hearing to the outer end of the said bearing. The lever is retained in position on the hearing in a usual manner, hy means of a washer 251, and a nutI 252, which clamps the washer against a shoulder formed on the bearing. An arm 253 extendsupwardly from the hase 250, an'd this arm at its free end terminates in a laterally extending hca'd 254 (Fig. 17), on the inner side of which head are formed hearings 254" and 2:55, and an incline 256 which runs from one' to the other of the said hearings. A sccondQarni 257 projects from the said hase 250, audvthis arm extends downwardly, at an angle towards the hack of the machine and to the end of this arm is secured an end 258 of a stop motion operatingl coil spring The other end of the said spring is seemed to an end 260, of a periphemlly threaded round pin 261, which passes freely through a hole that is in the upturned part 262 of a bracket 263, which bracket is secured, by means of a screw 264,

and has a seat in the bearing to the bed 'of the machine as illustrated in a connection 268.`

From the under side ol the hed 2 of the machine (Fig. 3) extend downwardly bearings 269 and 270 in which is journalled a. tubular shaft 271. To the forward extending end of this shaft' is secured, by means of a clampingrscrew 272, aA downwardly rojecting arm 273, and intermediate the ase of this arm .and the bearingl 269 is' a part 274 of the said shaft. wards its rear end is secured, by means ol'y 'a clampingv screw 275. an arm 276 which extends in a horizontal direction'trom the said shaft towards the front of the machine. Through the end of this arm is formed a hole in which is located the upper horizontullyextending end 277 of a downwardly extending connecting rod 278, a pin 279 serving in a usual way to retain the end of the connectin rod in the holein the-end of the arm. n the said tubular shaft, intermediate the base hearing 270, is located a coil spring 280. And on the said tubular shaft next to the other-side of the said bearing 270 is secured, by means of a clamping screw 281, a catch lever 282 which extends upwardly and around the edge of the bed o the machine as best illustrated in Fig. 13. A usual form of bearing, the huh of which is 292 (Fig. 13) is secured to the vertical part 3 of the arm of the machine (Fig. 2). 0n this bearing is pivotcd a latch lever 283, which hasa latch arm 284, provided with a latch end Y235. Back of this latch end is normally located a laterally extending part. 286, of the end 'of the catch lever` 282. The latch lever is retained on its hearing by a washer 287 which is clamped, by means of a right hand screw 288, tothe fac of the end of the said bearing. lThis sere passes freely through ahole in the washer which extends from the hub 292. The bearing is of suitahle length to permit the catch lever to turn to the cud of the said hearing. 289 extends upwardly trom the latch lever. 0n the periphery of the hub 29() oli the said lever (l ig. 13) is located a spring 291, one end of this spring is located in a hole formed in the said hub 292, and the other end engages the trip arm 289 as illustrated in the and this adjustment 0u the shaft toof the arm 276 and the.

Vfreely thereon when the washer is clamped trip arm sadFigfl. The said washer 28T has a small stop arm 293 formed on it. This stop arm at its end is turned inwardly, and this end serves as a stop for the lateh leverl 283, the arm 289 of whleh is normally .held in engagement witlrthe end of the said stop arm Vthi-ou li the action of the `airing 291. On the en of 'the latch lever is armed an inqline 294 (Figs. 2 and 23), and on the end of the catch lever is formed au incline A295.'

' On the extreme rear end of the shaft 271 is secured by' means' at a clamping screw 295 an arm 296 (Fia. 13), which arm at its free end is providedr` with a ball bearing 297, on which ismounted in a usual manner the lower end 298,0'f the c'onriertion 268.

From the hase :Kill of the stop motion power control lever proj'eets a fourth arm 305, as illustrated in Figs. 13 and 25. T his.

auxiliary lever is provided with a tail end 306, which is normally held against a pin 30T. by a. flat spring 308. which spring is attached. by nieans of a serew 30S). to the under side of the base 250 of the stop motion power control lever. 'The other end of the (lll Said auxiliary level terminates in an end which turns inwardly as indicated vliv dotted line Fig.`25. und this` inturned end is normally located in the groove 301 of the driving wheel, as indicated b vv dotted lines Fig. 13. One end of the flange 303. terminates at 310, and the other end at 311. and intel-me` diete these ends is a space 312. In the flange 304 is forint-d anoteh 313. 4

A- usual forni of hearing having-a huh 314 (Fig. 13), is secured to the haelt of the. vertieal part 3 ot the ariu of the machine, and on t iis hearing is pivoted a drop lever 315 having a lower part, 315i the end 515" of whirl] turns outwardly as shown iu Fig. 13. This lever is retained on itssaid hearing in the saule manner as the deserihed lateh lever 233. -that. is. hy a washer 316 which is se cured. by means of a let't hand serew- 317 to the -faee of the end of the said bearing. The washer is provided with an end 318 that turns inwardly. and serves as an adjustahle stop against whieh the drop lever normally rests. 'lhe washer 316 is adjusted so thatthe drop lever normally rests a little to the left of the vertieal. against the stop 318 as illustrated in Fig. 23. ln a slot 319 formed in the head 320 of the .drop lever is secured a thread defect deteetor 321. This detector consists of a rigid [iat part. 322-(Fig.531-w),r. and a thin Hat spring part 323, which flatter part is secured by means of serews324--ito the near side of the part 322.: Slots'i324 serve as means for the lateral adjustliientrof the plate 323. At the upper end of thelpurtl 322; and on the rear side of theffsamdis formed a hoss 325". which is flush'witlfthe faee of the rear side of the 'partfim 'lholi fh the upper end of the parti 322zis 75 former an opening 325. and justfhelqv'llillel hoss 325 formed, in the part-322.n'tt'ical 'slot 326. the lower end 32T 'owhielifleitends into the opening 325. The edg''f tile upper end of the part 322i runs from itsfaff'x B0 328. obliquely to thil slot 326. and-trouv tililsff point, it extends horizontally to"itS5`-infifer edge 329 and from this point vite.\tend. u1) wardly to the edge'of the bo'ss 325 as'fshown in Fig. 30. The oblique part' 330 of tl'i'etaid 85 edge is 'lievelled from its apex 328 "tout-lie@n lower end of the slot 326.- This beveli'fiaftt of the said edge laps over the end'330ifaa part 331 of the plate 322, and thisconstrmh tion forms a crotch 332. The jend tfif the part 331. is oblique and bevelled'onfitsfg side next. to the plate 323` 'andftli' spring part 323 4has a neck 333 forrndifn it whieh makes the upper portion'of" the said part vield more readily. vA pin334fls secured to the rear sidelof the arnrlofthe inaehine (Fig. 2) whieh serves as a sto1i\fr the drop lever 315. lfm

0n the ean'i shaft 60 (Fig. 29) isse'cx'redj worm 335, which is in engagement within worin wheel 336. 'lhe said wo'rrnwhtel'lfism" secured on the rear end of a short transverse shaft 337. whieh is iournalled in ahe'irljig 33S that extends horizontallv from thtlt'i'- tieal portion 33S). of'a lnaekel 340; Qntile .105 forward end of the Said transverse S'liaftl'ls" secured a worin 3-10" whieh meshes 'witlra worm wheel $541 that is secured ou thc-'Diff ripher)y of a sleeve 341" (Fig. 19)."-f'1l1e sleeve is journalled on a stud sl1af tf"342, 4110 which shaft at its hase is rigidly secuxetl, f" h v means of a nut 343. in the upper elnd'tif:A an arm 344. that extends from and is a part of thebraeket 2140. 'l`o the free end 'orftlt sleeve is Secured a. disr- 345. oh wliieht'is 115 formed a huh 346. 0u the said huli isi'iv'rs"J oted an auxiliary stop motionytrip' ler having a pivoted portion 347. andaniftird portion 343. A flat spring IH!) is at'ine 'id located in a transverse slot 349" fo nljinlo the extending end of a piu 350 earr'i'ei "von the dise 345. aud at its other end thei .iard spring impinges against the end-34S (if -tlie. said lever. and the liodv of thi` spiirigf-ittends around the said pivoted portion'rif file 125 lever as illustrated in Fig, 2T. 'l'he end of the stud shaft 342. extends to the face of the huh 346: clamped to this end ol' the said shaft. b v means of a serew 351. is a dise 332. and between this dise and the dise 345 the auxiliary stopA motion trip lever, spring which controls it, operativelyV lit., "The latch lever 283 is provided with :i horxl` -zontally extending arm 353.. which has an 5 end 35e-that extends justabeyond the pc- `riphery of thedisc 345,and just eontaetr; wxlihihV This position of the end 354 ol the Vsaid-.arm isjn the path of the und lo." the ;part 348, .and this brings about one engageparts each 'tigne the dise '.llolding "basze1362 (Figa-4). is prmided irith ,three ribs `363 (only oue'of Awhich'is shown) V whichrihsare spaced an equal dist uned aplart; 'onthe peripheryof the'tsaid base, z'nfl rim 'ffrolnthehp r end.. tothe lower end` of it.

y downwar lyxtending rod 364 is 4ai'wured 4.-. @entrailly ingtlle` lower. endof the base. and 2li-:this (rod:V atitsjoujerf. end 'is split forx'ning tsjiringffprongs md `.3(t .frrl|ieli prongs a re .beQt....illustrated-.Yin the1said Fig. Lillo f'theprongsgfrests wthe lowereud .36T o' a thread eon'e368;-wlche=1rries a supply of thread 369;` The cone from itsy .upper end 310105its-lqwelend367,-has a rarity 371 it, and the upper `end/of ,this rarity serres kas, `meansffo11the iupper end of the cone to '.bermly pressed, on the-ribs 36? of 'the .ageonelholden and when inths position the cavity, and vthe prongs 4365i and 366 extend outwardly,umlerthc1end 367 of the cone.

These'- Copesl in4 Pra .tice are madeof some fpliable niaterialsuc'n as misti-hoard for ex- .amplc.,...The .pring prongs 365 and 36; serre the pur ose 'of holding the cone from falling off th holdergand also of permitting the cone wh n ,so held to he readily piave-l 5 on the hof] r and removed therefrom.

l The fore/ming desa-ibed cone holdin-haa for itsriin purpose the holding of the cones in )ositnn as illustrated in Fifi'. I. plate T2, or any suitable device, ma he held [Jy/any means a sntiieientdietame allure the arm of the machine to permit the eones to be /ttaehed to the same by screws 373 as illus rated in the said-Fig. 5. 'lhe 4cone hol imr the filler materulis the samt-fas th se holding the thread. The` plate 872 Vbe held a wsullieient distance above the rin-"of the machine b v upright `ods 217-1- y and 375 on the upper ends of whie 1.. is sui t V ablv securedthe plate 372. The lower Vend 9K 'of the rod 371% is secured, by means f-a A'screw 376 (Fig. 2) in a seat formed in the top of the -head of the arm of the machine, and the lower end of the rod 375 is secured in an end 377 (Fig. 1) of a, @over plate 378,

and the which latter is firmly secured, by means of screws 37S), to the top of the arm ofthe machine. In the top of the plate 378 is located a needlethread guide post 380 Fig. 2), which has avertical part' 381, andra horiv'ontul 70 extending part 3H?. A lloop of wire 383 v'is located 'in 'the hoiizontal'part of the said needle thread guidepostr'and the said loop serves` asthe primary guide for the needle thread.v ln the end offLthe. part. 382 is formed ligand',iu/'tile top ol" thesaid end i e N5 that ti'rminat'es into the-llore SS-l and f-t'his is the Esi-.eend guide -for, the needle tllr'eazlsfl The end of the llore 384 ih loeat'ed allure. and vertieallyxa,little hat-k nl' the. thread 1lefeel-deteetnr.3213? 2: dln the tint-oi the |m-t32 is `formed au auxiliary Vthread guide 386 which' passes from the lop ofthe pestand emerges from the sideof'the saine at 387, asiillustra'ted. in dotted lines' Fig. l. 0n thetop ofthe taheup guard lange is located an auxiliar)r thread guide prm itled` with an eye 339. '0n the Al'ront side of `the face plate. is located au auxiliarythreadtensionldeviee +389; which is provided/with a usual slack thread .spring 390. (Fig. 1); '0n the faredf'fthe 'lare plate located an auxiliarythread guide 39]. and through the parl; 2'2S`is formed an. auxiliary thread eye 392. Through the said front side of the face Tplate. is formed anl eye. 393 which serres as-a Ieude lor the fillet'. material. -v i Referring to the cams for use in imaking the soollop emlu-oiderv designsqhereiu illustratetl *39l represents tl1e1highest point of the herilhellv of the ram (i3. and' l'l-the4 lou-egt pointe-396 represents .the highest point' in -the ca m 39T. and 39Stlic lowest point. 'Vlie lowest point of the ram-399 is ha. anal the highest point is 401. 'lhrough each ol` the eams is: formed a hole designated hy. the reference elmrarter 402. ln praetiee t--n'h olA the rants is provided with a huh 22. only one of which is shown herein (Fig. 19)` whifh huh adapts any of the cams to be readily secured to the end ofthe eaux .shaft (il). Y

Referring to the eouslruetiou of the einhroider)v illustrated herein (Fig. 3G), 5103 115 represents the eusp of the outer edge of each` of the embroideredlseollops: -l04-represents Athe apex of the said seollops. and .-l-tl rop- .356 of needle thread is located eentrallgl over the primal-v needle Athread guide 383.

and u suflicient. distanee ahove the said guide for' thethread te be drawn freely vfrom the cone. lThe needle thread passes through -this guide to the Vway (384-385) which is formed in the end of the horizo'ntalc-.p'art and when this Cam is used the connection o1 ,the pitlnan to the lever is the same as it is vin the use of the first mentioned cam.

Referring now lo the machine when in 5 operation, the rear end of the pitiuan 199 is adjusted a sufficient-'distance awayr from Ythe axis of the shaft 28 to give the desired extent of lateral movement to the auxiliary looper 214, and the end of the pitnian 94 is l0 adjusted in the T slot 75 a sufficient distance from the axis 73 of the shaft 71 to give the desired extent of reciprocating 'movement to l the'rworkmovingmeehanism plate 86, and through -it the desired late-ral movement to lf'lthe strip 355 of narrow fabric.

' A'sthe operation of the machine proceeds the auxiliaryA looper is oscillated hack and :forth in a horizontal plane,as illustrated in fulland'indotted lilies Yin Fig. l2. The f2 location of the zone of the lateral movement of thefneedle is snclnfrelative to the finger 232, that. `the needle in its reciprocating movementatthe right, rcciprocates at the ffl-ight of the'ngerand over and away from the edgeofthe fahric,'and in its reciprocating movement to the left of the finger it l Ypenetrates the 'edge ofthe fabric and anchors astitch'thereinf And as the' feed movement Tof the workprogrcsses through the rotating 30 vmovement 'of the'feed wheel 119, the plate `j86,and through' it tliefabric is moved lat- ',erally, through the action of the -cam 63 and the-connection betweenthe same, and the plate, to' properlvlocate thestitches in the scollop' design.` f

The 'time of the action-.of the loop'er 214 "is sucli.relative to the reciprocating move- Yf ment ot the needle,thatat`the time the 'needle descends to forma stitch at the right 40 oi" the finger' the thread delivery nose of the Aloopenissullicientlv to the right of the re- A ciprocatirigr path of'thelneedle to locate the auxiliarv thread hack of the needle. and the same relative action takes place when the 15 needledcscends to the left. of the nger. and by this relative action of these pa :ts the auxiliary looper thread 359 is loon d around the connecting links of the needle hreadxbas illustrated in Fig.' 36. L

It will be observed that'the location of the auxiliary thread eye 392 is to the left of the lateral zone of oscillation ofthe auxiliar-:xr looper,- which zone is indicated by the full and dotted lines of. the end of the looper in 5 Fig. 12` and that the center of said zone of oscillation of the loopcr is a consid ab e cxtent to the right of the zone of lateral move ment ofthe needle which zone is indicated by full and dotted lines of the pcnetrtios of 6 the needle in Fig. 12. From the. relative positions and actions ot' these parts it will be understood that as the auxiliary looper moves to the position shown in dotted-lines in 12, the auxiliary threa Wines s taut and the necessary amount of t thread required for setting a stitch is at this time Adrawn from the supply through the tension 389, and against the action ot the takeaip spring 390. As the said looper moves to the position shown in full lines in the said Figure 12, the auxiliary thread becomes slack.

and no drag is produced on the said auxiliary thread.

From 'the movements of parts it will be understood that all the pull on the auxiliary'thread as the stitches are being,lr set is m a. direction away from the edge of the fabric. The end of the finger 232 is so located relative to the back wall of the needle slot 131`that a foregoing described relative sufficient number of stitches remain on the A finger for the stitches to be securely locked in position for making the buttonhole finish along,1r the edge -of the scollops before they pass ofi' ofthe finger.

The importance, 1s pointed out, of the construction being,r such that the'stitch connecting links of needle thread remain over the said finger until the auxiliary looper has drawn the auxiliary thread to the outer edge of the embroideryr so as to cause the said stitch connecting links of thread to he twisted with the auxiliary thread at the said outer edge, as illustrated in Figure 12 of the drawings. This finger, not onlyacts as a support for the setting of the stitches oft and away from the edge of the fabric,` but more particularly as a support for the twistingr of the auxiliary and needle threads to gether .so as to hold the stitches in place' which are located off and awav from the edge of the fabric, and also to form a button hole finish aloner said edge.

The filling material 231 passes freely t0 the 2groove 233 of `thc linger 232, and this groove is so formed and located that the lilling material is retained in the groove hy the stitches which are-made over the finger,

and he reciprocating path of the needle at the gibt of the finger is close to the finger 'and consequently it is close to thefilling material. By reason of these relative positions of these elements the filling material is pushed to the huttonholc finislrin the part of the scollop which is made oli' the fabric.

The thread delivery part 21T of the auxiliary louper being located to oscillate inthe are of a circle back of the zone of the lateral movement of the needle. in addition to erformingr the function of looping,r an auxiliary thread around the connectingr links of needle thread as has been described, also helps to move the stitches oft' of the finger, as will he understood from Fig. 12. When the s id looper is in .the position shown in do ed lines in Fig. '12, it is drawing: on the looper thread against the action of the tension 389 as before described, and this draw being in a direction away from the finger and in the direction of the end of the same it, together 

